The complete guide to potatoes

Aloo is in parathas, samosas, biryani, curries, chaat and fries. The reason the same potato works brilliantly in one dish and badly in another is starch.

Floury vs waxy

Floury potatoes are high in starch and low in moisture. They fall apart when boiled and turn light and fluffy when mashed or fried. Waxy potatoes have less starch and more moisture, so they hold their shape.

In Pakistani markets, potatoes are rarely labelled by type. As a rule of thumb, older, dusty-skinned potatoes cook more floury, while smooth, thin-skinned new potatoes behave more like waxy ones.

Boil them the right way

• Start potatoes in cold, salted water so they cook evenly to the centre.
• For parathas and chaat, boil them whole in their skins. Peeled or cut potatoes absorb water and make the filling soggy.
• They are done when a knife slides in with no resistance.

Frying tips

Soak cut potatoes in cold water for 30 minutes to rinse off surface starch, then dry them very well. Wet potatoes spit in hot oil and never crisp properly. For the crispest fries, fry twice: first at a lower temperature until soft, then again in hotter oil until golden.

Storage

Keep potatoes in a cool, dark, airy place, in a basket or paper bag rather than plastic. Keep them away from onions; the gases each gives off make the other spoil faster. Don’t refrigerate raw potatoes: the cold turns their starch to sugar, and they brown too fast when fried.

Green patches mean the potato has been exposed to light. Cut the green parts away generously, and throw away potatoes that are very green or have many sprouts.

Try them in Aloo Paratha or crisp Onion & Potato Pakoras.