Kashmiri Rogan Josh

Whisk the yogurt with the Kashmiri chilli powder, ground fennel, ground ginger, coriander, turmeric and salt until smooth. Mix in the lamb and leave it while you prepare the rest, at least 15 minutes.

Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. If using mustard oil, heat until it just starts to smoke lightly, then lower the heat for a few seconds to mellow the smell.

Add the green and black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaves. Stir for 20 seconds until fragrant, then add the hing.

Add the sliced onions with a small pinch of salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Stir in the ginger and garlic pastes and cook for 1 minute, until the raw smell goes.

Add the lamb with all its marinade. Turn the heat to high and stir constantly for 8 to 10 minutes, until the meat has changed colour and the oil begins to separate at the edges.

Stir in the tomato puree and cook for 2 minutes. Pour in the hot water and bring to a boil, scraping up anything stuck to the base.

Cover, reduce to the lowest heat and simmer for 60 to 75 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes, until the lamb is tender and pulls easily from the bone. Add a splash of hot water if the sauce gets too thick.

Uncover and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes if the sauce is thin, until it coats the meat and a red oil layer shines on top. Stir in the garam masala.

Rest off the heat for 5 minutes, then scatter with fresh coriander and serve hot.