Dal Makhani

Put the drained lentils and kidney beans in a pressure cooker with the water and 1 tsp salt. Bring to the boil and skim off any foam.

Close the lid and cook on high pressure for 35 to 40 minutes (about 12 whistles). Let the pressure release naturally. The lentils and beans should crush easily between two fingers. If using an open pot, simmer covered for 1½ to 2 hours, topping up with hot water as needed.

While they cook, blend the tomatoes to a smooth purée and chop the onions. Set both aside with the ginger-garlic paste.

Heat the oil and 1 tbsp butter in a wide heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin, cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaves and cook for 30 seconds until fragrant.

Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until soft and deep golden, about 12 minutes. Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chillies and cook for 2 minutes until the raw smell goes.

Stir in the tomato purée, chilli powder, coriander, turmeric and the remaining ½ tsp salt. Cook, stirring, for 10 to 12 minutes until the mixture darkens and the butter and oil separate at the edges.

Tip the cooked lentils and beans with all their cooking liquid into the masala. Use the back of a spoon to mash a few spoonfuls against the side of the pan to thicken the dal.

Simmer on low heat, uncovered, for 30 to 35 minutes, stirring often from the bottom so it does not catch. The dal is ready when it is thick, creamy and dark, and a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a trail. Add hot water if it gets too thick.

Stir in the cream, 1 tbsp butter, garam masala, crushed fenugreek leaves and a pinch of sugar. Simmer for 5 minutes, then taste and adjust the salt. Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaves.

Melt the last 1 tbsp butter and swirl it over the top. Rest the dal off the heat for 5 minutes before serving so it thickens slightly.