Paya (Slow-Cooked Trotters)

Ingredients

• 1.2 kg goat or lamb trotters, singed, cleaned and cut into pieces by the butcher
• 1 tbsp white vinegar or lemon juice, for blanching
• 1 tsp salt, for blanching
• 80 ml cooking oil
• 2 large onions, thinly sliced
• 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• ½ cup plain yogurt, whisked smooth
• 2 tbsp ground coriander
• 1½ tsp red chilli powder, or to taste
• ½ tsp turmeric powder
• 2 tsp salt, or to taste
• 2 bay leaves
• 4 green cardamom pods
• 1 black cardamom pod
• 1 cinnamon stick, about 5 cm
• 6 cloves
• 1 tsp whole black peppercorns
• 1.6 l water, plus more for blanching
• 3 tbsp whole wheat flour (atta), mixed with 100 ml cold water
• 1 tsp garam masala
• 2 tbsp ghee, for the tarka
• 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, for the tarka
• 3 tbsp fresh ginger, cut into thin matchsticks, for garnish
• 3 green chillies, sliced, for garnish
• ¼ cup fresh coriander, chopped, for garnish
• 2 lemons, cut into wedges, to serve

Instructions

1. Rinse the trotters well under cold running water and check for any leftover hair or hoof bits; pick them off or ask the butcher to re-singe. Place them in a large pot, cover with water and add the vinegar and 1 tsp salt.
2. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes; grey scum will rise. Drain into a colander, rinse the trotters under running water and wash out the pot.
3. Heat the oil in the pressure cooker over medium heat. Add the bay leaves, green and black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant.
4. Add the sliced onions and fry, stirring often, until deep golden brown, not dark. Lower the heat if they colour too fast.
5. Stir in the ginger-garlic paste and cook for 1 minute until the raw smell goes. Add the coriander, chilli powder, turmeric and 2 tsp salt with a splash of water, and cook for 1 minute.
6. Lower the heat, add the yogurt a spoonful at a time while stirring, then cook until the oil starts to separate at the edges of the masala.
7. Add the blanched trotters and fry with the masala, turning them so every piece is coated, until the masala clings and smells roasted.
8. Pour in 1.6 litres of hot water and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam, then seal the lid.
9. Cook on high heat until the cooker reaches full pressure, then lower the heat and pressure-cook for 60 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the pressure release naturally.
10. Open the lid and test a piece: the skin should be soft and the meat should pull easily from the bone. If it is still firm, seal and cook under pressure for 15 minutes more.
11. Bring the gravy to a gentle simmer. Stir the flour and water mixture until smooth, pour it in slowly while stirring, and simmer uncovered until the gravy is glossy and coats the back of a spoon.
12. Stir in the garam masala and turn off the heat. Heat the ghee in a small pan, fry the sliced garlic until light golden, and pour the sizzling ghee over the paya.
13. Rest for 5 minutes, then serve in deep bowls topped with ginger matchsticks, green chillies and fresh coriander, with lemon wedges on the side.

Tips

• Ask the butcher to singe and split the trotters; unsinged hair is hard to remove at home and spoils the dish.
• Blanching in salted vinegar water removes odour and scum, so the final gravy is clean tasting and clear of foam.
• The gravy sets to a soft jelly when cooled. This is natural and shows the trotters have released plenty of body.
• If you use a regular pot instead of a pressure cooker, simmer covered on the lowest heat for 3.5 to 4 hours and top up with hot water as needed. Allow extra time beyond the timers here.