Bihari Boti

Ingredients

• 700 g boneless beef (topside, rump or silverside), trimmed and sliced across the grain into thin strips about 5 mm thick and 4 cm wide
• 2 tbsp raw green papaya, peeled and grated to a paste
• 1½ tbsp ginger-garlic paste
• ½ cup thick plain yogurt, drained of extra whey
• 3 tbsp mustard oil
• 2 tbsp lemon juice
• 2 tsp red chilli powder
• 1 tsp coriander seeds, dry roasted and coarsely ground
• 1 tsp cumin seeds, dry roasted and ground
• 1 tbsp white poppy seeds (khus khus), dry roasted and ground
• 2 tbsp roasted chickpea (bhuna chana) powder
• 1 tsp garam masala powder
• ½ tsp black pepper, freshly ground
• 1½ tsp salt, or to taste
• 3 tbsp fried onions (birista), crushed
• 250 ml water, for slow cooking, plus 100 ml extra if needed
• 2 tbsp oil or melted ghee, for basting
• 1 tsp ghee, for the smoking step (optional)
• 1 tsp chaat masala, for finishing
• 1 small piece of natural lump charcoal, for smoking (optional)

Instructions

1. Trim any thick sinew or silverskin from the beef. For easier slicing, chill the meat in the freezer for 20 minutes first. Slice it across the grain into thin strips about 5 mm thick and 4 cm wide, and place them in a large bowl.
2. Dry roast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds and poppy seeds in a small pan over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant and just starting to darken. Cool, then grind the coriander coarsely and the cumin and poppy seeds to a fine powder.
3. Add the grated papaya, ginger-garlic paste, salt and lemon juice to the beef. Massage for 2 minutes, then leave for 15 minutes so the papaya begins to tenderise the meat.
4. Add the yogurt, mustard oil, chilli powder, ground spices, roasted chickpea powder, garam masala, pepper and crushed fried onions. Mix well so every strip is coated in a thick paste.
5. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, ideally overnight. Do not go beyond 12 hours, or the papaya can make the meat mushy. Keep the raw beef chilled the whole time.
6. Tip the beef and all of its marinade into a heavy pot and add 250 ml water. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then cover and cook on low heat for 75 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes and checking there is still some liquid, until the beef is tender when pressed with a fork.
7. About 25 minutes before the beef finishes cooking, light the charcoal grill and wait about 20 minutes, until the coals are glowing with a light grey ash. Or heat a griddle pan or oven grill to its highest setting just before you need it.
8. Uncover the pot and cook over medium-high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often, until the liquid has reduced and the thick masala clings to the strips. Check the beef is tender and reaches at least 75°C inside. If it is still firm, add 100 ml water, cover and cook on low heat 15 minutes more, then reduce again.
9. Brush the grate or pan lightly with oil. Thread the tender strips carefully onto skewers in loose folds, leaving small gaps. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes on one side until the edges are browned and lightly charred, brushing with a little oil or ghee.
10. Turn and grill the other side for 3 to 4 minutes until charred at the edges and steaming hot. Repeat with the remaining skewers in batches if the grill is small. Use clean tongs and a clean plate for the cooked meat.
11. For a smoky flavour, slide the boti off the skewers into a clean heavy pot and set a small steel bowl in the middle. Heat the charcoal on the flame until red hot, carefully set it in the bowl with tongs and drizzle with 1 teaspoon ghee. Cover at once and leave for 3 minutes. Do this in a well-ventilated space and keep the pot away from children.
12. Remove the bowl and charcoal with tongs and let the boti rest for 2 minutes. Sprinkle with chaat masala and serve hot with lemon wedges and sliced onions.

Tips

• Slice the beef across the grain while it is very cold, or after 20 minutes in the freezer, to get even thin strips.
• Use raw green papaya, not ripe papaya, and stick to the quantity given. Too much or too long a marinade turns the meat soft and mushy.
• Drain the yogurt well and reduce the masala until it clings, so the boti chars on the grill rather than steams.
• Never use the smoking step in a closed room. Charcoal gives off carbon monoxide, so keep the space well ventilated.